Stiven Vunić has built a gastronomic philosophy based on a deep understanding of his region Kvarner, respect for local producers and the belief that top-notch cuisine begins precisely where a person lives. His story began with his grandmother and grandfather, amidst the scent of brodetto, fresh fish and Kvarner scampi. Growing up by the sea and the rhythm of a small coastal town, he learned early on to respect the food and the region it comes from. Today, with his wife Tea, with whom he has been since high school and with whom he runs a restaurant, he creates one of the most interesting gastronomic stories on the Croatian coast. He is a passionate athlete and a man who does not accept half-measures, even outside of the kitchen.
I collaborated with Vunić on the creation of the restaurant's wine list, and through that process I gained the impression that wine occupies an important place in his gastronomic thinking. His thoughts on wines are just as precise and detailed as his thoughts on the ingredients on the plate. Therefore, a conversation about wine with Stiven Vunić is also a conversation about gastronomy, Kvarner and the people who shape it. During the conversation, we touched on his approach to wine, the role of wine in contemporary gastronomy, wine lists, market trends and the way in which wine can enrich the overall gastronomic experience.
How do you see Kvarner wines and local varieties today? Do you think that Kvarner is finally getting the wine identity it deserves gastronomically?
What I consider the most important, both in food and wine, is terroir. It is this that gives authenticity and identity to the product. In the last fifteen years or so, Kvarner wines have become significantly more expressive, recognizable and of higher quality. Winemakers are increasingly focused on expressing the character of the region, and less on following global trends, although I still see a lot of room for improvement here.
Žlahtina carries the region
I believe that the future lies in smaller batches and wines that have a clear story, origin and personality. Žlahtina is the best example of a variety that can carry the identity of the region, but also shows how many different interpretations it can offer depending on the producer and terroir. It is precisely that such wines can best represent the region and create its recognizable wine identity.
Is there a Croatian variety or style of wine that surprised you and that particularly inspires you?
Honestly, the biggest surprise for me in recent years has been Škrlet. For a long time, I subconsciously associated it with wine for a liter bottle. However, through wines from winemakers like Kosovac, Miklaužić and some others, I discovered how serious, complex, and interesting this variety can actually be.
How important serving wine by the glass is today, and do you think it is the way that is changing wine culture among guests the most?
I think it is important for a restaurant to offer a wider selection of wines by the glass, but you need to be careful. Such an offer needs to be adjusted to the number of guests, business continuity, staff education and the restaurant's price range. The goal is not to have as many labels as possible, but to offer guests a well-designed selection that the staff knows how to present, recommen, and tell it's story.
We need better cooperation between winemakers and restaurateurs
Today, there are quality systems and closures that allow wine to stay in good shape for longer, which gives restaurants greater flexibility when creating a wine by the glass offer. When set up correctly, such an offer can significantly contribute to the development of wine culture and encourage guests to explore new varieties, styles, and regions.
How do you view the prices of Croatian wines in restaurants today? Do you think that the quality justifies the price increase, and how challenging is it for guests?
Given the increasing costs of doing business and the various taxes that caterers face, it is understandable that wine prices have risen. However, I think that wines are generally quite expensive today, especially since winemakers themselves have adjusted prices in recent years to keep up with the increase in production costs. It is particularly challenging to find a balance between quality, accessibility and cost-effectiveness, as there is always a certain amount of slack. I believe there is room for stronger cooperation between winemakers and caterers, especially when it comes to wine promotion, as this is often the best way for guests to get to know new labels and producers.
How do you see the changing of the wine culture in Croatia over the past fifteen years? Do you think that the growth of a new gastronomic scene and a new wave of cooking has naturally raised the way people experience wine today?
In Croatia, there has been a natural development in both, gastronomy and wine culture, over the past fifteen years. I think that this was partly influenced by Slovenia, which earlier recognized the importance of local identity, terroir and the connection between gastronomy and winemakers. Kvarner, due to its proximity, had the opportunity to learn from this development.
The chef must understand wines
Today, guests are more curious and wine is increasingly seen as an integral part of the gastronomic experience, although part of the audience that grew up with wines of former styles is somewhat slower to accept new trends and interpretations.
How important is it for a chef to be educated about wine and wine culture? Can serious gastronomy function today without this understanding?
I believe that a chef does not have to be a top sommelier, but he must understand wines and wine culture. Today, serious gastronomy can hardly function without this connection. A chef should know the basics of oenology, understand how acidity, tannins, alcohol and wine style affect the dish and collaborate with the sommelier to create an experience for the guest. He does not have to know everything about wines, but he must understand the patterns and the way in which food and wine complement each other. That is why it is important to be included in the wine part of the story: top gastronomy today is not just food on a plate, but an entire experience.
Your entire menu is full of a combining freshness and minerality, whether the main ingrediants are shrimps, anchovies, white or oily fish. Do you think that Kvarner naturally requires a different style of wine than the rest of Croatia due to its ingredients?
My cuisine is based exclusively on seafood, so natural food partners are white wines, rosés and sparkling wines in various interpretations. But, we must admit that Kvarner has traditionally been associated with peasant cuisine at the foot of Mount Učka. The way of eating used to be largely determined by lifestyle and hard physical labor, so the dishes were simple, filling and adapted to what people had available.
The idea starts with the ingredients, and the wine comes
It is precisely this combination of sea and hinterland that gives our gastronomy its uniqueness. That's why I see Kvarner wines through diversity, and not through the styles that we attribute to it in advance.
When you create a new dish, do you think primarily as a chef or do you already include the sommelier in you? In other words, does the idea first arise from the ingredients and the plate or do you from the beginning think about the wine which will which will best accompany the dish?
When I create a new dish, I usually already have a vision of the sequence in which it will be served and where it will fit into the menu. As a result, I naturally think about the wine that will accompany it. The idea usually starts with the ingredients and the dish, but very soon the process also includes thinking about pairing. I believe that food and wine together create a complete gastronomic experience.
When you look at your former work and some of the dishes that have marked your gastronomic journey, are there one or two plates that, if you can say, provided the most complete gastronomic experience through the combination of food and wine?
Two combinations remain among my favorites. The first is our famous ceviche with Opoka from the Simčič winery, and the second is cuttlefish on šugo with Riesling from the Kopjar winery. Both remain in my memory because it was through them that I felt how much the combination of food and wine can complete the entire experience.
More and more wines with long macerations and a biodynamic approach are finding their place in serious gastronomy. Do you see this direction in wine as a parallel to what has happened in cooking with the return to fermentation, local ingredients, and a more natural approach? How much has it changed the way you think about pairing today?
It certainly has had an impact, but I am not a slave to styles and trends. The idea itself and the story behind the wine are much more important to me.
The ultimate experience in the glass and on the plate
I think that natural, macerated and biodynamic wines are very compatible with the approach to cooking that has been developing in recent years through fermentation, local ingredients and a deeper understanding of the process. There is a certain symbiosis and signification there. On the other hand, when we talk about complex techniques, both in the kitchen and in the cellar, a high level of knowledge and precision is required to achieve a truly high-quality result. In the end, I am always interested in the ultimate experience in the glass and on the plate, and less in belonging to a particular fashion or style.
Photos: Zijavica and Pro Wine