This unusual tasting order proved excellent, as it offered a glimpse of the wonderful direction in which the younger vintage, five years its junior, might evolve. The older wine is creamy and remarkably fresh despite its age, with a mature, lingering finish. It also makes a compelling case for purchase: the wholesale price is under 50 euros. It is a very fair price for a vintage Champagne that spent four years aging on fine lees in the bottle following its second fermentation. The younger wine, not yet ten years old, will pair beautifully in the coming warm months with a large sea bream or a roast veal dish.
The beautiful afternoon began with a Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne. Its name indicating it is made exclusively from Chardonnay and it had been aged on fine lees for three years. To accompany it, the team from the Kaiser restaurant, owned by sommelier Mario Meštrović, prepared young goat cheese breaded in panko crumbs, served with hazelnut oil and a gin-and-tonic gel. Also aged for three years was the excellent Premier Cru Brut Grande Réserve, a blend comprising 50% Chardonnay and 25% each of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.
It is a serious Champagne that caresses the nose with aromas of violets and forest fruits. It is full-bodied and boasts an exceptionally balanced interplay of freshness and sweetness. We enjoyed the Premier Cru Brut Grande Réserve alongside a bite-sized treat featuring mascarpone cream, toasted almonds, crispy bacon, and lemon zest served on bread. The wholesale price for both non-vintage Champagnes is €41.50. Following the formal part of the event, the presentation continued with breakout sessions where everyone could sample their personal favorites. It was then that the team from Meat the King, the wine shop’s immediate neighbor, demonstrated how these Champagnes pair beautifully with grilled Black Slavonian pig meat.
De Vilmont is a relatively young Champagne house named after an officer of Louis XVI’s Royal Guard from the late 18th century. According to legend, the Marquis de San Crevés, François Alphonse Donatien De Vilmont, celebrated the victory over the Austrian-Prussian army at Valmy with Champagne, opening the bottles with a saber. Since 2007, De Vilmont has been owned by the major Italian winery Serena Wines 1881, based in Conegliano in the Veneto region.
