There are many rules when it comes to food and wine pairing, but ultimately, one's own palate is the sole judge of what goes well together. So, it’s a matter of taking a bite and a sip to see which flavor comes out on top. I am certain that 99 percent of people wouldn't be able to discern the taste of a lightly pan-fried sea bass fillet if they washed it down with a robust Plavac, nor would they appreciate the nuances of a light Kujundžuša after a bite of grilled amberjack. Therefore, here is a brief guide to pairing wines with four exquisite dishes featuring well-known saltwater fish.
The most common brunch
Fried sardines with cold potato salad make for a wonderful meal, especially when the fish is bought fresh from a boat that has just docked. A young Malvazija, specifically from last year's vintage, pairs beautifully with them. The entry-level Malvazija from the Fakin winery in Motovun is a great choice. It has a fine, delicate aroma and a taste that is initially slightly creamy, followed by a pleasant salinity. These characteristics allow it to effectively balance the richness and savory sweetness of the small oily fish with the freshness of the salad.
The most delicate
Hake is a fish with a fairly neutral flavor that pairs beautifully with a mineral-driven wine such as the Debit produced by Bibich winery of Plastovo near Skradin, which was among the first in Dalmatia to craft a high-quality version of this variety. The grape had previously suffered from a poor reputation because large wineries would extract excessive yields from the vines, resulting in a barely drinkable final product. Alen Bibić has dedicated himself seriously to the variety, producing it in several styles, with even the entry-level offering proving impressive. His son Filip is now taking over the business, introducing a new Debit named Superstitious Bilo. This fresh, fruity wine features a pleasant salinity that elegantly complements the delicate meat of the hake.
A multitude of names
Orada, lovrata, podlanica, komarča, zlatočnjak, panca, komljuša, gilinga, ježarica, strigavica, zlatnica… More than twenty different names has this beautiful fish rightfully dubbed the queen. Orada is known by a different name in almost every village, yet it is loved equally everywhere. Its flavor is rich and sumptuous, calling for a similarly magnificent wine, the kind produced from the Pošip grape. An excellent choice is the Sv. Ivan from the Šain Marelić winery in Čara on the island of Korčula. It offers aromas of chamomile, acacia honey, and pineapple, while the taste is full-bodied, rich in extract, and mineral-driven.
The Largest
The tuna can grow to over four meters in length and is the largest fish for which the Adriatic Sea is a permanent home. It roams the sea in search of the fish and cephalopods that make up its favorite diet, venturing into bays. Its meat is of such high quality that preparation should be kept as simple as possible. It is excellent gently grilled, and a red wine pairs perfectly with it when prepared this way. The ideal choice is the Plavka by Darijo Gašpar from Vrgorac, a magnificent wine made from an underrated grape variety.
Photos: Samantha Gilmore i Christian Seebeck on Unsplash