Pannonia and Istria Connected
The taste is exceptionally fresh, long-lasting and, one could almost say, pinot-noir-like. Kudos also for the price: a bottle costs about 12 euros. This is undoubtedly the Croatian Frankovka with the best value for the money. Borgonja, after all, is the Istrian name for the famous Pannonian variety
Tasting of Damjanić' wines at the Brolo wine bar in Zagreb began with the Virtù Brut sparkling wine, made from 60 percent Malvasia, 30 percent Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc. Produced using the Charmat method, its second fermentation took place in a tank, resulting in a refreshing, relatively short-lived taste that still leaves a lasting impression.
Mineral freshness
After a sip, there's a gentle prickle, as if it tickles between your upper teeth and the inside of your cheek. It has nothing to do with bubbles, although it does bubble nicely. It's a characteristic of good wines made from grapes grown in mineral-rich soil
Ivan has also unveiled a classic sparkling wine, produced using the champagne method of second fermentation in the bottle. It will be called Bonvivan and will have the same varietal blend as Virtù, only, of course, it will be fuller-bodied and riper. He's been tinkering with it for four years now, and now, he says, it's ready to go.
What were once hectares are now vines
He has been experimenting for years with the Duranija variety, which in the 19th century accounted for 60% of the 30,000 hectares of vines planted in Istria at the time. Today, across Croatia, we have 16,789 hectares. Ivan has 1,600 Durignja vines and, he laughs, is the world's largest grower.
Duranija 2023 is his third harvest from an almost forgotten variety. A fourth vintage will soon be on the market, and he continues to plant more. When there are more vines, there will also be different vinifications, and the potential of the variety will become clear. For now, it is simple and enjoyable. The winery Agapito from Marčenegla, not far from Buzet, also has its wine bottled.
Malvazija 2024. is excellent
Next up was the 2024 Malvasia from the tank. It will soon be bottled, but even as it is, it was excellent in the glass. It has moderate aromas, a wonderful combination of herbal, fruity, and floral notes, and the flavor is delicately balanced. It has a pleasant bitterness, a gentle saltiness and every sip leaves you wanting more.
Borgonja is the perfect companion for the robust Teran, these were the words Ivan used to introduce the 2020 Duro Istriano. A blend of these two varieties in equal proportions was aged in large wooden barrels.
Songs on Request
The lovely aroma of stone fruit is intertwined with delicate herbal notes and subtle spices. It was a wonderful conclusion to the official program, followed by a musical performance tailored to the guests’ wishes, as well as a tasting of other wines from a fairly wide selection: they have 15 labels and plans for new ones.
Photos: Igor Majcen