Rhine Riesling produced in cooler European vineyards ripens for a long time, slowly accumulates sugars and loses freshness even more slowly. It is the wine grail for every winemaker who cultivates this noble variety in his vineyard. It is precisely this paradoxical combination of high acids and full phenolic and aromatic maturity that gives it an aristocratic character to wines that many consider it the noblest whites in the world. Croatia, however, is not Germany, and neither is France's Alsace nor Austria's Wachau.
Riesling does not like to rush
In most of our locations, the vegetation ends at higher temperatures than Riesling would like. Warmer summers accelerate ripening, acids are consumed faster than the variety likes, and the aromatics often transition prematurely from citrus and floral to overripe fruitiness and pronounced tropical aromas. Instead of tension, we get softness, and instead of finesse, warmth. It is not necessarily a bad wine, but it is not a great Riesling.
Seeks electrical precision
Add to that the fact that many Croatian soils lack the combination of slate and specific mineral layers that give Riesling its famous vibration and electrical precision, it becomes clear why the variety is more demanding in our country than is often thought. There are exceptions, but they are not the rule.
Noble rot is another crucial element. In the great Rieslings of the world, although it is not always the goal, but when nature gets its way, it is botrytis that creates some of the greatest dessert wines in the world. Its development requires very foggy mornings, and extremely sunny, airy afternoons that allow the berry to slowly dehydrate, rather than rot. Such conditions are present in Croatia, but they are very unpredictable.
Mosel, Rheingau and Alsace are Hard-to-Reach
Because of all of the above, and much more, our top Rieslings are a real rarity and only the best locations in Croatia can reach exceptional conditions for the highest dosage. However, it is almost impossible to achieve the layering that we associate with the Mosel, Rheingau or Alsace regions.
Riesling does not like excessive technology
Of course, vinification is not unimportant either. Riesling does not like excessive technology. Any intervention that blurs its crystal clarity actually takes away its identity. The greatest Rieslings are created precisely when the oenologist knows how to take a step back and let the variety speak for itself.
Because of all this, Croatian top Rieslings can be counted almost on the fingers of one hand, but we are especially happy when we find them. Overall, Croatia can (still!) produce high-quality Riesling, but only when the terroir, climate, harvest and patience of the winemakers match.
Plešivica and Zagorje produce good Riesling...
It would be unfair to talk about Croatia and Rhine Riesling and not mention the winemakers who, over the past decades, have proven that this variety can reach a high level in our country. Plešivica has perhaps given the most great interpretations through the wines of Korak, Šember, Tomac, Jagunić, Režek, Braje, Kolarić and Kurtalj, while in Hrvatsko Zagorje, among the most significant names are Kopjar, Bolfan and Bodren.
... and Zelina, Međimurje, Slavonia, Danube
Excellent examples can also be found in Međimurje, in wineries Kocijan and Cmrečnjak and in Slavonia and the Croatian Danube region where you can't miss with Enjingi, Kutjevo, Papak, Erdutski podrumi and Iločki podrumi, as well as at the Kos winery in Zelina prigorje and Gerstmajer in Baranja.
However, it should be noted that even the best producers do not always produce the same quality of Riesling from one vintage to the next. In the past, some wineries almost regularly managed to produce top-notch Rieslings, but climate change in recent years has significantly changed the rules of the game.
Warmer, earlier, more difficult for Riesling
Warmer vegetation, earlier harvests and the increasing difficulty of preserving high natural acids, varietal recognizability and freshness have made the production of great Riesling more demanding than ever before. That is why today, more than ever, we should appreciate every vintage in which the variety manages to express itself in its full elegance.