Sikuli Brut Nature is made from Pošip grapes grown in Kaštela and Chardonnay grown in the Sinj area. Following a secondary fermentation in the bottle, it was aged on the lees for a year and a half. It was first produced from the 2021 vintage, yielding 300 bottles. Production quadrupled with the 2022 vintage, and by the following year, it had reached 2,500 bottles. They skipped production last year, but Ivica Kovačević announces that they will be making it again this year. They need it. It is a fine wine that visitors frequently ask for. It is the only wine they sell exclusively at the winery.
Love Replaces Business
What better way to start a meeting with a long-time acquaintance, a serious businessman who now smiles more than ever, and more than most people? Clearly, tending to 7,000 vines in Kaštela and about 3,000 in Sinj, while working alongside family members, suits him better than managing the vast hectares and hectoliters of wine production in and around Bol on the island of Brač. For his efforts in both areas, he received the Miljenko Grgić annual award from the Vino Dalmacije (Wines of Dalmatia) association this year, recognizing his contribution to winemaking and viticulture. The family also purchases some grapes from the Nadin area.
The winery is located next to the Sikuli archaeological site. Greeks established a settlement there in the 2nd century BC after sailing from Issa, the name they used for the island of Vis. Labels on the multi-varietal wines simply read Sikuli, denoting both the winery and the site itself. Sikuli Rosé is made from Grenache and Syrah grapes from Nadin. Sikuli White is an excellent blend of Chardonnay from Sinj and Pošip grown near the winery, using a ratio similar to that found in their sparkling wine, while Sikuli Red is a robust yet elegant blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The single-varietal wines are named Kaštel Sikuli Pošip and Kaštel Sikuli Kaštelanski Crljenak.
First wines from the 2018 vintage
Sikuli was renowned for wine production and trade as early as twenty-three centuries ago, a fact evidenced by the rich collection of amphorae and drinking vessels discovered at the site. The winery’s first modern wines came from the 2018 vintage and hit the market the following year. Their range also includes Prošek. While oenologist and winemaker Dr. Leo Gracin had previously produced it for them, the Kovačević family is crafting their own version for the first time this year. They sell their wines at several restaurants and export about 15 percent to the USA and as much as 30 percent to Germany. A two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Nuremberg has even included Kaštel Sikuli Pošip in its food and wine pairing menu.
Americans make up the largest share of the winery's guests, accounting for as much as 40 percent,and a family from the US that was among the first to visit after the opening now returns every year. They are followed in number by Croatians, then Germans, Britons, and the Dutch. For the time being, the cellar, kitchen, and tasting room are all housed in the same building. The plan is to keep the winery in the existing structure while setting up a new space for welcoming guests, wine tastings, and food pairings just a few dozen meters away, at a location offering an even more beautiful view.
The native Crljenak and the newcomer Pošip
The vineyard surrounding the winery is in its prime. The previous owners planted a wide variety of grapes in 2008 and 2009. After taking over, Ivica and his family carried out some clearing and regrafting, resulting in a vineyard that now features the native Crljenak alongside the newly planted Pošip. This 2024 Pošip, crafted from grapes grown on rocky terrain and aged partly in small barrels and partly in stainless steel, exudes aromas of apple and grapefruit. The mineral-rich soil has imparted a lovely freshness, ensuring the 13.5% alcohol content does not feel obtrusive in the slightest.
Sikuli Bijelo 2024 was the absolute perfect match for a hot summer day, harmonizing the two key elements of freshness almost flawlessly: Chardonnay from Sinj provided fine acidity, while Pošip from Kaštela added a subtle salty note. Thanks to the temperature, Sikuli Crno 2022 was also highly enjoyable. The current Kastel Sikuli Kaštelanski Crljenak 2023 is young and still somewhat untamed; it is highly recommended to buy it this summer—while stocks last—and let it age for a few years.
Three courses, four, or six
Kastel Sikuli is a true family-run business where five wonderful people handle everything. Cousin Nikolina is the key figure, they say. She works her magic in the kitchen, preparing gems like a leg of lamb dry-aged for seven days, served with a Crljenak wine reduction. Sikuli offers food paired with wines in three, four, or six-course menus, and it would truly be a shame not to try one of them. To wrap things up, here is an example of what a three-course meal looks like, along with a few illustrations:
Fotografije: Ivana Pranjić corkcroatia.hr