What is Grimalda by Ivica Matošević? It is half of his life told in eight words: G stands for music, and R for the joy with which he dedicates himself to it, while I stands for Ivica. M is, of course, Matošević. A is the beginning of the alphabet, the first step towards the letter L, which begins the Latin word ludens — the one who plays. D is the gift this winemaker has for wine, and A is the adventure he embarked on 30 years ago when he bottled his first wines.
Eight letters for eight bottles of wine called Grimalda, presented during a visit to the winery in Krunčići. Grimalda is a settlement in the Istrian municipality of Cerovlje, where Ivica has one of his vineyards.
Eight vintages and one more
He prepared all vintages of Grimalda White following the famously difficult 2014 vintage, in which this wine was not produced at all. Grimalda White is a blend of Malvazija and Chardonnay, with a touch of Sauvignon Blanc.
The journey begins with Grimalda 2022. As if stone and wind can be felt in the glass of this mature, full and highly enjoyable wine. Although the vineyard is located in central Istria, the wine seems to carry hints of the sea, making it a perfect match for shellfish and crabs, even raw, as well as white fish carpaccio and grouper, which borders on blue fish.
A vineyard in a glass
The one-year-older Grimalda still shows signs of oak ageing. It is lightly smoky and gently vanilla-scented, while retaining its fruitiness with notes of peach and pineapple. The palate is rounded, full, pleasantly earthy, understated, and a beautiful reflection of the vineyard.
Grimalda 2020 has reached full maturity. It has a beautiful aroma, with already noticeable tertiary notes and a very long finish, while the 2019 vintage is like a vampire: incredibly youthful and quite sexy.
Fresh even in 2015.
Grimalda 2018 is fresh, with Chardonnay standing out and overshadowing Malvazija and Sauvignon, yet the wine is still very fine. The 2017 vintage opens beautifully, while 2016 remains quite fresh with Malvazija still clearly recognizable. The 2015 vintage shows full maturity, and its scent of time fades relatively quickly in the glass.
All bottles were opened at the same time, about two hours before tasting, and served without decanting - and they do not need it, not even the 2008 vintage with which Matošević completed this Grimalda vertical.
Mature, yet still youthful
On the nose and palate, it clearly shows full maturity without being heavy. On the contrary, it drinks very nicely in spring. Before and after the tasting, we also tried Aura 2025 made from Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Malvazija aged in stainless steel, as well as the young Green Grimalda, which is pure Sauvignon.
This was followed by Malvazija Alba 2019 and 2006, the beautiful macerated Alba Antiqua from the recent 2021 vintage, and two wines aged on fine lees in acacia barrels under the Alba Robinia label. The 2014 vintage was initially closed on the nose but later opened gently and elegantly.
Malvazija for a cigar
The taste is exceptional, very fresh, and almost calls for roasted suckling pig. Robinia 2004 can beautifully conclude a dinner or a long wine gathering, even alongside brandy and a mild cigar. The story behind the Grimalda vertical can also be told through the letters of its name
G stands for the anniversary of devotion to wine — 30 years. R stands for the rose, which, even if not perfect, is far from anything ugly, just like wine. I is the challenge he faces every year. M is the sea he lives by. A is the anti-stress therapy provided by his vineyard. L is the first half of the word love. D is the child in Ivica’s heart, and another A is the final letter of the name of his life partner, Đurđica, who competes in Ironman triathlons. Ivica follows her and calls her IronWoman.
