I couldn't live anywhere else. A single day away from Plastovo, whether in Split, Rijeka, or Zagreb, is more than enough for me, said Ivan Sladić. During a visit on a hot July day, he and his father Joso, refreshed themselves and us with four fine white wines, complemented by a smooth red and an excellent dessert wine. The experience began, naturally, with a young Maraština.
This refreshing summer wine has a gentle 12.5% alcohol content and an acidity level of up to six grams per liter, while a fine minerality adds extra freshness. Maraština was the first grape variety they planted, and today it accounts for fully 80 percent of the grapes from their six hectares of vineyards.
Vineyard is 300 Meters Above Sea Level
Situated at an elevation of up to 300 meters, the site is exposed to plenty of wind, meaning the vines require only minimal protection. Next came the Fiora Nobile rosé, a name that can be loosely translated from Italian as noble flower. Made from the Plavina variety, this rosé is fresh yet substantial, making it a suitable summer lunch companion that can even stand in for a full-bodied red wine.
The Maraština grapes for the wine named 21 Days underwent a three-week maceration. Native yeasts were used, and the wine was aged for one year in a small barrel followed by two years in the bottle. It has an alcohol content of around 15 percent and opens up slowly in the glass, evolving from minute to minute.
One barrel every year, new lesson every year
Ivan produces this wine, making just one barrel each year and affectionately refers to it as a lesson for the future. After swirling, the wine leaves long, lingering streaks on the glass, while the influence of the wood is merely a subtle, highly pleasant hint. This Babić comes from the 2020 vintage, a time when the vineyard was still very young. It has 13 percent alcohol and gently reveals the character imparted by its time in the barrel.
The taste is full-bodied yet not heavy. Despite being nearly six years old, it remains quite fresh and pairs beautifully with lamb in the summer. Joso, Marko and Ivan also produce a sparkling wine from the Maraština grape, as well as sweet wine Deorum.
Nectar for the gods
The name is rooted in the Latin word deus (god)ž. In this form, indicating plural possession, it can be freely translated as wine of the gods. While the name may sound pretentious, it befits a wine that ranks among the finest Dalmatian dessert wines. It has 15% alcohol and 150 grams of residual sugar, but it's finely balanced and easy to drink.
Before leaving, we renovate ourselves with a simple yet delicious, crisp Debit wine, wonderfully refreshing and a cheerful thirst-quencher. Sadly, I also learned that the legendary Petar Vuković, owner of Skala, my favorite restaurant in Skradin, passed away last September.
Running the Skala restaurant in Skradin
Until the coronavirus pandemic we used to get together there at least once a year, usually over cuttlefish orzot, and spoke at length on the phone at least once a month. The Sladić family runs Skala now, but you, dear Pero, will welcome me whereever you are now, so our get-togethers will be more frequent.