That wonderful wine marked the beginning of a business meeting between sommelier Ivan Jug and Gianna Kozlović, the charming young proprietor of the renowned winery from Momjan. It immediately turned into a spectacular experience. There were five Momjan Muscats on the table, and every single one was outstanding. Gianna had pulled the other four from the family winery’s cellar. The 2017 Muscat was shy, initially closed off, almost quiet. It took about ten minutes to open up, revealing aromas of fresh, delicate blossoms and beginning to call for seafood pairings like anchovies on toast, scampi, or even pasta with a white sauce.
The 2015 vintage was the exact opposite. Almost arrogant at first, with abundant aromas of fruit, spices, and even saffron, along with a very pleasant saline taste. It, too, would pair well with pasta, specifically a truffle-based dish. The view from the terrace on that beautiful day certainly enhanced the impression, there are Muscat vines growing just below the winery, but the wines from 2008 and 2003 were truly extraordinary. The 16-year-old vintage offered a range of dried fruits and nuts, accompanied by rich sweetness, while the one that was five years older was anything but old.
It evolved minute by minute in the glass and simply smelled of life. A beautiful life. It caressed the palate, eliciting surprise at first, and then a smile. That is how the Muscats presented themselves in the finest possible way, convincing us that they can be truly sweet even when dry. Dry ones can be sweeter, or rather more delightful, than those with residual sugar.
