The Matuško winery produces 20 different labels, perhaps even a few more, Mato says with a laugh, adding seriously that anyone can find a wine to suit their taste there, whether in terms of style, color, type, or price. The most affordable options are the quality-grade Rukatac and Plavac Mali, with bottles priced at four euros. At the other end of the spectrum, the premium Dingač Reserva costs 33 euros, the Dingač Royal Selection is 57 euros, and the Superior Cuvée is 140 euros. It really frustrates him to see some restaurateurs mark up the prices of his more affordable wines. They come asking for the biggest possible discount, only to turn around and charge 30 euros for a bottle. Well, do the math: multiply it by three, and you get nine, not twenty-nine, says Mato.
He is also announcing a minor revolution. He no longer wants to submit his wines for organoleptic evaluation before releasing them to the market. And he doesn't have to, provided he does not wish to highlight on the label whether the wine is classified as premium, quality, or table wine. In that case, he would not be permitted to state the grape variety, but there is a workaround for that, too. Grk, what means Greek, is the name of a grape variety, but I could make a wine from Graševina, Rukatac, and Kujundžuša and name it G-R-K, using their initial letters. Grk is also the name of a football club from Potomje. Why shouldn't I name the wine after that, he asks. He does indeed have Graševina, from his own vineyard in Ilok on Danube river. Rukatac is the lokal name for the Maraština variety, and he sources Kujundžuša from the Imotski Field.
As for the most expensive wines, they may retain the names Reserva, Royal Selection, and Superior Cuvée, because these are not legally regulated wine categories. Those who currently enjoy these wines will continue to buy them, regardless of whether the label says Dingač or not, provided they remain satisfied with the quality. And there is certainly plenty to enjoy. The Don Mateo sparkling wines, both white and rosé, are delightful for summertime. The Pošip and Grk pair beautifully with raw fish, and the Royal Selection brings a touch of Christmas to the restaurant at the foot of the Dingač slopes with its late-summer aromas. And the Reserva is a quintessential example of wine made from grapes grown at our most renowned vineyard site. Below are memories captured during visits to the winery, arranged in chronological order.
Photos: Bakhov sin Ivo kozarčanin and Ivana Pranjić, Cork Croatia