In 2001, George Fistonich declared the Villa Maria winery a cork-free zone. He disliked the risks associated with cork stoppers. He claims that between three and four percent of wines spoil because of them. Either developing cork taint caused by a specific bacterium found in cork oak bark, or allowing air to seep in and oxidize the wine. The wine ages prematurely, rendering the adage the older, the better invalid. Fistonich says he experimented with screw caps for a long time, and once convinced that they had no adverse effect on the wine over a ten-year period, he switched to using them exclusively. He is proud that many others have followed his lead, especially in New Zealand, where 95 percent of wine bottles are sealed with screw caps.
Cork stoppers are romantic but unreliable when it comes to wine. Screw caps preserve wine so much better that, within 15 to 20 years, all winemakers will be using them, believes Fistonich. He spent the summer of 2013 in Croatia, visiting Hvar, among other places. It was from Hvar that his father Andrija had emigrated to New Zealand in 1926. There, he initially dug for kauri gum sed in tattooing and jewelry making. Once he had saved enough money, he bought a property where he and his wife Mandica raised four children. He had intended for George to become a merchant, but upon turning 21, George asked to lease the land so he could start making wine.
The title of Sir he has since 2009.
That was in 1961. The following year, George filled 1,200 bottles with Port-style and Sherry-style wines, Pinot Noir, a Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and Hock. The latter is an American hybrid known locally as Noja. His production eventually grew to nine million liters annually, and he became New Zealand’s most internationally awarded winemaker. In 2009, the Queen of England awarded him the title of Sir for his contributions to the wine industry.
We met over a glass of his entry-level Sauvignon Blanc, which possesses all the aromas typical of New Zealand wines made from this aromatic variety, yet they are not overpowering, as can sometimes be the case, but simply appealing. Appealing enough to invite a second sip. George Fistonich’s Villa Maria was the last major family-owned winery established by Croatian immigrants. The others were acquired by multinational corporations.
Vivat distributes Villa Maria wines in Croatia
Fistonich owned vineyards in the renowned regions of Auckland, Gisborne, Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough. He cultivated eight white and six red grape varieties and categorized his wines into five quality tiers. Since 2021, Villa Maria has been owned by New Zealand’s largest wine company, Indevin Group, and their wines are distributed in Croatia by Vivat.
Croatian immigrants pioneered winemaking in New Zealand. Marino Selak, from Rašćani near Vrgorac, arrived in Auckland in 1906. He worked in the kauri gum fields for years before planting his first vines in 1934. His nephew Mate joined him in 1939 and established a full-scale business, which the family sold to the House of Nobilo winery about thirty years ago.
Croats were the first to produce sparkling
The Selaks were the first producers of sparkling wine in New Zealand. The Nobilo family arrived in New Zealand in 1937 from Lumbarda on the island of Korčula. They planted vines and, in 1945, opened a tavern where they sold their wine. Their business grew steadily, and by 1995, they were producing four million liters annually. Other renowned New Zealand winemakers of Croatian descent include the Brajkovich, Yukich, and Babich families.