Half the people in Lumbarda have the surname Milina, there are about ten of us named Frano Milina, so we use our family’s 200-year-old nickname Bire, says Frano Milina Bire, whose winery has become virtually synonymous with the Grk grape variety. Its name has nothing to do with Greeks, but rather refers to the pleasant bitterness found in these unique wines. In Croatian language grk also means bitter. The Bire winery, however, has evolved into something more: it is growing into a small village-like complex featuring a dozen structures of various sizes and purposes ranging from grape processing facilities and quiet corners for wine aging to spaces designed to host groups of all sizes, whether for a brief, intimate gathering over a glass of wine or a leisurely, hours-long experience by the future pool, accompanied by food that perfectly complements the wines.
Grk is an old Korčula grape variety that survived the phylloxera outbreak over a century ago because it was planted in sandy soil. That vine louse, a devourer of vine roots, cannot survive in sand. Before visiting the winery, Frano took us to the Defora site, a vineyard demonstrating that Grk can produce exceptional grapes even when grown in rocky terrain. He enclosed the terraces with dry-stone walls, creating a veritable little paradise complete with a stone cottage and a covered terrace for small groups. And the Grk Defora turned out to be a fantastic find.
Defora means the outer side, de fora, explains Frano. The wine bearing this label is made exclusively from grapes grown at that specific site and has been aged for two and a half years on fine lees in large barrels ranging from 2,000 to 3,000 liters. Grk Defora 2022 is distinguished by a lovely touch of oak and wonderful freshness. It offers a full, lingering flavor and a delightful salinity, along with the characteristic grk note, meaning bitter in Dalmatia. Here it manifests as a pleasant bitterness, complemented by fine tannins that make every sip invite the next one. It pairs well with all types of meat and large, fatty white fish, such as wild sea bream.
Bire’s standard Grk incorporates grapes from three types of soil: sand, stone, and crljenica (red soil). Upon tasting, the 2024 Grk revealed aromas of mulberry and white peach, a wonderful fullness on the palate, and a fine, pleasant bitterness. Possessing exactly the degree of bitterness is haracteristic of the variety. Pagar, fish with beautiful taste, came up in conversation during the tasting. Grk would pair perfectly with that roasted fish. And with dentex, of course... Naturally, the tasting concluded with the calm Plavac wines mentioned earlier, having begun with the restless ones. Frano also produces a rosé sparkling wine, made via the tank method from Plavac grapes spanning three vintages (2024, 2023, and 2022), exclusively for winery guests. It is fresh yet full-bodied, with very fine bubbles that caress the palate rather than feeling harsh. So, there you have it: two great grape varieties yielding four great wines. It would also be a shame not to share a few more lovely photos from the gathering with Ivana Pranjić (Cork Croatia), including a selfie...
