No matter the yield, it can produce excellent wine, said Nikola Grabovac with satisfaction as he served an outstanding Pošip Selekcija 2025 after lunch. It boasts a beautiful greenish-yellow hue with golden highlights and a crisp, clean aroma, while the palate is delightfully luscious, pleasantly saline and fruity, fresh, and long-lasting.
The wines are rich in character yet remarkably delicate
The harvest parameters were ideal: 100° Oechsle, 6.5 g/L acidity, and a pH of 3.25. It is a profile that pairs beautifully with the 13.5% alcohol, seemingly lending the wine a gentler quality. The Sauvignon Blanc Riserva 2025 follows the same style: it possesses a distinctive aroma, yet is far removed from the aggressive green leaf notes typical of New World wines.
The aromas are delicate and pleasantly floral, while the taste is deliciously rich yet remarkably fresh. It is a reminiscent of the finest, more restrained Sauvignon Blancs from the Loire Valley. Next came the Draga Riserva 2023. The grapes, Kujundžuša, Pošip, Žilavka, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, originate from the Vučja Draga vineyard, situated at an altitude of 400 meters.
Vines grow from the stones
Each variety was vinified separately, and the wines were aged on fine lees prior to blending. Vučja Draga was once a stream that carried soil down into the valley. Now it lies beneath the stones from which the vines grow. It is a magnificent slope planted with Viognier, Trnjak, Vranac, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Abundant with wild savory, the site is easily located by scent alone.
The Grabovac family introduced us to their world of red wines with the 2023 Trnjak. Some of the grapes come from Vučja Draga, while the rest represent the first harvest from the Čanjevica vineyard. It boasts 15% alcohol yet already displays softened tannins. The glass is brimming with fruit notes followed by Mediterranean herbs.
Vranac 2020 as is from 2024
The 2020 Vranac Riserva possesses a freshness reminiscent of a 2024 vintage. This quality stems from a combination of pleasant acidity and minerality, while the tannins have softened as though the wine had aged for several additional years. We were reminded of that 2024 vintage when tasting a wonderful Cabernet Franc from that year. Produced from grapes grown in a young vineyard and aged in two small barrels, the current plan is to bottle it exclusively in magnums. The Grabovacs will certainly have something to be proud of...
Photos: Ivana Pranjić, Cork Croatia